Why The Never-Heard-Of-It Factor Is Fashion's New Selling Point, designer labels took years to establish. Customers had to
recognise a brand before splashing serious cash on it. Now, with a
speeded-up fashion cycle and an appetite for newness that’s seemingly
insatiable, buyers are emboldened to actively seek out exciting, unknown
brands that will give their look a unique edge. Never heard of it? All
the more reason to buy it. Now stores compete to sign hot new designers,
because small unknown brands offer a level of individuality that their
customers crave. At the recent Matchesfashion.com event in New York, the
never-heard-of-it factor was in full force, with the internet giant
throwing its considerable weight behind little known, emerging talents.
Here are the three new names to put on your shopping list:
Germainer
Since
graduating from St Martin’s, 24-year-old Kevin Germanier has been
working for Nicholas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, whilst simultaneously
setting up his own brand. Germainer’s principles are rooted in the
concept of sustainability but his aesthetic is high glamour. Decorative
and dressy, these clothes are also radical in fabrication. Germanier
achieves his dramatic, sculptural shapes and vivid colouration because
his clothes are made from rubber, set with plastic beads that the
designer rescued from an Indian landfill. “It’s glamorous - like a
modern Ellie Saab but you can wash it in the machine,” says
Matchesfashion.com buying director Natalie Kingham. Yes to that.
Summa
Not
all emerging brands are founded by newly hatched designers. Summa was
launched in 2016 by Jane Chung, who co-founded DKNY with Donna Karan.
When it comes to taste and designing pitch perfect, covetable luxury,
Chung knows what she’s doing. Her design pedigree and connoisseurship is
evident in every piece. This is a brand for women who appreciate
extreme, up-close attention to detail and a refined level of taste.
Shapes borrow from menswear and fabrics whisper luxury. Philophilles
form an orderly queue.
Batsheva
When
her obsession with vintage Laura Ashley and Holly Hobbie became
overwhelming, Batsheva Hay left her job as a New York attorney to set up
her own fashion brand. Specialising in Insta-friendly prairie dresses
Batsheva has quickly found an eager fan base amongst New York’s arty,
intellectual crowd. Hay’s frilled, feminine dresses have plenty of retro
charm, and each collection is made from small runs of vintage fabrics.
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